As I stepped through the front door of the TWA Hotel at JFK Airport, the 1956 hit "Bus Stop" by The Hollies played overhead. The arrivals board in my line of sight was filled with flights and airlines—many of which no longer exist. A TWA airliner, now converted into a bar (which opens at 4 PM), sits outside, visible through the massive floor-to-ceiling windows. It truly felt like stepping back in time. Once home to the now-defunct Trans World Airlines, this landmark terminal turned hotel is a tribute to the golden age of American air travel.
Without a doubt, this isn’t your typical airport hotel. It’s not packed with smelly travelers who missed their connections or home to an outdated conference center that only holds events more desirable locations would otherwise pass up like weird multi level marketing scheme recruitment events. This is refuge in the otherwise demoralizing landscape that defines modern air travel. It’s across the street from Terminal 5, home to JetBlue.
Most importantly it is the perfect place to kickstart your ski vacation. Arrive a little early to relax before heading off to the Rockies, the Alps, or the Andes.
As you enter, you walk past check-in counters, which lead to a food court offering staples including Mister Softee. The terminal’s old waiting lounge is now filled with a bar, high-end restaurants —- one of which is by iconic chef Jean George who is behind some of the most top tier restaurants in New York City. The hotel also has a stunning open air bar right there in the lobby.
The fun really begins on the rooftop, where there’s a pool overlooking the runway, along with a bar and restaurant. Right now, the rooftop is themed as a ski chalet and will stay that way through the winter months. Thankfully, the outdoor pool is heated, so it’s comfortable year-round. From the deck, you get a relaxing vista of planes taking off, JetBlue airplanes parked at their gates at neighboring Terminal 5, as well as a mix of airlines—including Emirates and Caribbean Airlines—lining up at the terminal to the right.
Take a dive in, and feel the stress melt away before your vacation even begins. During my quick dip, I met a group of friends on a layover between South America and Europe, and a local couple who missed their flight to Aruba and were getting some R&R in the chalet before catching their second flight later in the evening. It’s a friendly, laid-back atmosphere.
After your swim, grab a bite or a drink at the indoor restaurant across from the pool. The menu is diverse, offering everything from delicious sliders to gnocchi blankets alongside more simple options. The full bar, which sits under a stunning art deco TWA logo, will surely have your cocktail of choice. I went with a hot toddy.
The ski chalet theme was fun but not exactly a showstopper—more of a light tease for what you’ll experience upon arriving in the mountains. The bartenders wore shirts that read “Runway Ski Club”—a clever touch. The space is decorated with old skis, snowshoes, faux fur blankets, and oil lamps, but otherwise felt like it could have been any other hotel bar.
But let’s be honest: a year-round heated pool, bar, and restaurant beat what’s waiting for you in the terminal while you wait for your flight. Take my advice: If you’re flying through JFK, get there a few hours early. Enjoy the pool, have a drink, grab a bite, and avoid the cramped confines of the terminal. Your legs and psyche will thank you.
Andy Hirschfeld is the Editor-In-Chief for City and Slopes Magazine. He’s in charge of editorial direction and production. He also is a regular contributor to outlets including Al Jazeera English, Fast Company, Marketplace, Time Out, Slate Magazine and many other notable publications. He’s the creator of the WFHishNYC newsletter. He has appeared on Ticker News, CGTN, TYT, NPR, and Newsnet. Previously he produced for Bloomberg, CNN and CBS News. An avid skier, he’s hit the slopes in eight states and three countries. When he’s not skiing and reporting, you can find him cooking, swimming, fencing or biking around New York City.